Thrift Shop Thursday

This may become a regular column. I prefer to gather most of my costuming supplies at thrift shops. Not just because it is cheaper, but because it really flexes my creative muscles. There is something about a fabric store that (although I love them) brings out a little bit of anxiety in me. I have ADHD and sometimes there are just too many places to look. Shopping in thrift stores narrows my focus. It gives me parameters. Since I have decided to use only natural fabrics when possible, I have to really concentrate on what I can make with what I can find. I also see things differently. I don't see things for what they ARE, but for what they COULD be (something I also used to do with men. bad idea) Here are a few things from my latest haul.

This is what was hanging on the rack:

Huge baby blue 25% linen %75 Cotton tablecloth $4

This is what I see:

The link took me to Elegant Vintage but this item wasn't listed

Then I found a bag of several (not sure how many) yards of this unused fabric:

smells like smoke, but it can be washed. 100% cotton.

Thinking about this:

Right? So cute.

And then there was this hideous beaded tank:

polyester. Ugh.

But when I look at the sequins closer:

They are ridged and metalic, not plastic looking

And I think, "I will remove those cool sequins from that ugly tank and use them to make".......

Flapper!
This concludes your tour of the inside of my brain for this blogpost.

One Weekend and Twenty-Five Cent Post-Edwardian Corset, Part Two

Phew! Well, I managed to 'mostly' get it done. If you missed part one, you can see it here. First I cut the pants apart so I could use it as fabric. Rather than pin the pattern to the fabric, I use fabric weights.

I managed to get all the pieces out of the pants

After cutting out the fabric, I transfer all the markings directly on to the fabric with a Frixion Heat erase pen. It makes things much easier to put together and all markings disappear with ironing.

After a few rounds with my sewing machine. I beat it into submission, setting in on some 1900 house and sewed up all the seams. The pattern doesn't have seam allowances, so I added 1/2 inch. For boning, I used various sizes of cable ties.

The nice thing about cable ties, is that you can cut them to size with ordinary scissors.

Crappy scissors for cutting the ties. A foot file to round out the edges.

To avoid confusion later, I mark where the boning is going to go with sharpie.

I used pre-made boning channels and some twill tape for the boning channels.

I didn't have the front busk yet, so I basted the front of the corset together so I could lace it up.

Not me

I love the silhouette of this corset.

Also not me

Things I learned:
1. Have more than one bobbin. That way when you lose you ONLY BOBBIN you don't have to waste a half an hour looking for it before you even start.
2. Don't sew several pieces inside out. Machine sewing seams are a female dog to pick out
3. Project runway is the best show to watch while machine sewing. It's like you are RIGHT THERE.
4. Using my sewing machine is bearable if I put it on my coffee table. I guess it's not the sewing machine I have a problem with, it's getting off the couch.

When I get the front busk, I will show a picture of the front. Since my event is this coming weekend, I need to get to work on the shirtwaist. I may just leave the the front sewn together for now, so I can wear it under my costume. I hope my boyfriend has been eating his Wheaties, but pulling this puppy tight is a workout.

One Weekend and Twenty-Five Cent Post-Edwardian Corset

Using the Pattern and tutorial from Festive Attyre, a pair of 100% cotton twill pants I got for a quarter at a yard sale, cable ties I already own, and a busk removed from another corset, I am going to attempt to make a Post-Edwardian Corset this weekend. Actually, I hope to do it more quickly, since I still need to finish the shirtwaist and walking skirt.

Here are the pants. No stretch at all and they are a large men's size.

This is Festive Attyre's finished corset. Mine will not be as pretty, nor will it have the garters because I'm in a hurry. I'm also going to use my sewing machine *gasp* even though I haven't used it in two years. I am being a smidge ambitious.

Festive Attyre's Corset

I already enlarged and printed out the pattern. I need to:
1. Deconstruct the Pants
2. Cut out the pattern from the pant fabric
3. Find my sewing machine
4. Realize I don't have any thread in the machine
5. Find some thread.
6. Look for bobbins
7. Fill bobbins
8. Swear
9. Find a costume drama to watch this. (okay, this will probably be number one)
10. Start sewing.
11. Realize, I have totally forgotten how to use a sewing machine.
12. Do it anyway and thank goodness this all going to be UNDER my costume
13. Have a drink. (okay, again this will probably be 1 or 2)
14. Try it on. (should have been number 1 or 2, but I am just going to trust the fates on this one)
15. Bask in my glory or throw the whole thing against the wall and wear my completely wrong for the period, but it'll do in a pinch, Victorian Corset.

Ready Ladies. Start your engines! And....

18th Century Stays for Historical Sew Fortnightly Bodice Challenge

This is going to be a 'quick and dirty' blog post because I'm in a rush. I finished these for the most part last weekend and didn't get a chance to post the picture. Stays or Pair of Bodies, is just the older term for corset. (essentially, for the layman, I'm sure there are costume historians that would have more information). These were completed for the Historical Fortnightly Challenge #5: Bodice. I made mine from Reconstructing History's 1740's to 1790's downloadable ePattern.

The back is supposed to have a 2 inch gap, but I just keep losing too much darn weight

The original pattern had a back closure only, but it's virtually impossible to fasten by myself. Since my ladies maid quit in a huff after I asked her to stop boffing the stable boy, I've had to dress myself.I cut the front down the middle and added lacing, so I can get it on without help.

This photo makes me want to yodel

The stays are made from Silk Dupioni on the outside with linen interlining. I bound the edges with pre-made bias tape (cheater!) and the bones are all 1/4 inch cable ties. These are not historically correct of course, but whales are so hard to catch these days and they don't give up there bones easily.

Oscar Trolls

Every year, I have an Oscar party. I make myself something fabulous of course, but this year I've been so busy sewing historically that I haven't even started. I'll whip something up. In the meantime, I also made some special troll dolls as awards.

Best Dressed Female Award

Don'cha wish your girlfriend had a booty like me

Best dressed male award

Best original costume

Watch the Windows! or The Regency Short Stays

My mother was always very sensitive to my concerns about my ever expanding bosom. When I would turn around to show off a new blouse or shirt she would say "Watch the Windows!!" so this was my first thought when trying on these stays. Actually I can't even show you what they look like when I have myself all hoisted up in the correct manner. I'll just let this lady show you.

You're right. It's so distracting that this is a picture of the wrong time period.

I completed these for Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #3: Pink so I had to photograph them.I kind of re-arranged things to be a little more safe for work. Here's me.

 

Is that the prow of a ship?

If you aren't too distracted to look at the actual stays, they look pretty good if I do say sew. (see what I did there?) They are all hand sewn. I used some leftover silk from a dress I found at the thrift store. I also had some Coutil left over from my victorian corset. The boning are 1/4 inch cable ties and the eyelets are all hand sewn. Badly. I will redo them when I have a chance.

I look downright tasteful in this one

The pattern for both the stays and the chemise are from Sense and Sensibility Underthings Pattern If one must be altogether truthful, ladies of my extreme age and bodaciousness weren't really wearing this style of stays. If I was wearing this style at all, I'd be wearing longer stays that are a little more like a traditional corset. I am, in truth, mutton dressed as lamb in this get up.But you know what? Pffffthhhh.

I won! Costume College Scholarship.

I just found out yesterday that I am the lucky recipient of a Costume College Scholarship. There is a good chance that, if you are reading this blog. (helloooo, Bueller? Bueller?) then you already know what that is. Just in case you don't, Costume College is an amazing four days of classes and events all put on by costumers for costumers and a chance to stay immersed in that environment at a hotel the whole time. These are my people. For more information, check out their website

http://www.costumecollege.net/

Beside classes, which haven't been released yet, there are several events. Although wearing large overwhelming costumes to the actual classes is not encouraged, the events are another story. There is a Pool Party, An Ice Cream Social, An Ascot Tea and the Time Travelers Gala. All I know for  sure, is that I'll be rocking some kind of 'My Fair Lady' type outfit for the tea. Maybe a Poiret inspired dress with an enormous hat.

Not this one, but something like it

I'm also pretty sure I'm going to go 18th Century, probably 1760's for the Gala. Since Ken is going to accompany me, I need to make something for me

Just a little something

and for Ken

Don't tell Ken, he'll never know unless he reads this blog. Mwaaahhaaaa

Okay, so probably not in those colors, but I'm awfully tempted.

Regency Chemise

This is a very simple garment. A regency chemise of cotton voile. I used the Sense & Sensibility Regency Underthings pattern and sewed it all by hand. It's very very soft and very very sheer. It will be worn under a pair of short stays and a dress. I was going to use the same fabric for the dress, but I think it will far to see-through unless I line it.

My victorian corset is under there. It won't be when actually worn.

It would be immodest for me to model this myself. Even Tessie was blushing at the thought. Here's a closer look at the top.

I'm going to replace the pink ribbon with a white cord when I acquire some. 

Here's a sneak peak of the short stays I am making.

Just a little tease. You can't see the front until I'm further along

Meet Tessie

I am proud to introduce to you, "Torpedo T*ts Tessie" heretofore know as "Tessie" She is a Uniquely You dressform that my darling boyfriend bought me for Christmas. There is a fitted dress that fits over the form, which is kind of a memory foam, that you sew to your exact size and then fit over the form. When I actually do that, I'll let you know how it goes.

Holy Torpedoes Batman!

I'm participation in the Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 again this year, and the first challenge is 

#1: Make Do & Mend – due Wed 15 Jan. Let’s start of the year with a clean slate, and with a bit of a tidy up.  Use this challenge as an opportunity to get your historical wardrobe in order by fixing any little bits that have worn out and gone wrong.  Alternatively, you could focus on the historical precedent of making-do by re-making something into a historical garments, whether it be a bodice from a worn-out skirt, a chemise from old sheets, a bosom-friend from an old cardigan, or a new historical hat from an old modern one etc.  Finally, you could just those people who had to make-do by making something for a historical character who would have scrimped and saved and re-made and mended until the fabric entirely fell apart.

I have a pretty linen shirt that I bought at the thrift store. It is far too big, but I think I can make it into a nice victorian shirtwaist.

I took the whole blouse apart with a seam ripper, with the intention to then use the pattern pieces from the Folkwear Schoolmarm pattern shirtwaist, but of course the pattern pieces are way to big, so I'm going to have to get creative. Make it work! I put both the half finished walking skirt and the tucked in uncut shirt on the corseted Tessie, to do a little visual mockup of what it will look like. The picture isn't great, but you can get a bit of an idea. I have some other linen from some old pillow shams. If I tea dye the whole thing and those pieces, it may all look like it goes together.

The whole shirt will be reshaped.

More detail of the lace

Teasing pictures of Dickens outfit

First of all, since everyone seems to have pictures of their cat sitting on their fabric, I present my dog snuggling with mine. I apologise for the partial shots. My mirror is very narrow.

That's Amos. He is a good boy.

After about twenty minutes of struggling, I finally managed to get my corset on by myself. I took it in, but its still too big. Essentially, even with the back laces meeting completely,  it's still my same waist size.

On the upside, the steel spiral boning make it super comfortable. I wore it most of the day so I wouldn't have to struggle into it when I tried on my skirt.

I found a really poofy bridal underskirt that gives the right silhouette. So it's going to have to do for now until I can make my own ruffled petticoat.

I don't even want to KNOW what's it's made of

I did make a regular petticoat. It's just three one yard panels make from a sheet and cartridge pleated to the wastband.

And then the skirt. Also cartridge pleated.

It's poufier than it looks in the mirror.

I really love cartridgle pleats. They add zero bulk to the waist, so you can wear several layers and they look nice.

Not shown, the three times the pleats came out before I realized I was using my thin decorative cotton thread istead of my super sturdy buttonhole thread.

Using plaid fabric really helped with the spacing of the pleats.

Here's the corset

This is a picture of it on my mannequin instead of on me. I decided that 45 minutes of  struggling to get it on myself at one in the morning was quite enough torture for one day. I need a ladies maid. So it's in need of a press and I may add some crochet lace, but at this point I won't have anything to wear over it if I don't get started on the dress.

My mannequin doesn't quite have my hips or boobs, so I'm hoping some of this wrinkling with smooth out when it's actually on my body.

The back will be laced a little better too. The lacing will be a bit looser on my boobs and my hips and a bit tighter on the waist.

If you look closely, you can see I skipped a grommet. I did measure, but somehow I got off just enough that there is one more hole on the left than on the right. Oh well, another lesson learned for next time.

Dicken's Corset or OW! my thumbs are killing me

Spring Green Linen for the fashion fabric

I have been sewing my poor fingers to the bone all day on my corset for Dickens. I do enjoy hand sewing, but sewing through 2 layers of cotil and a layer of linen, is really tough on my thumb.This is my first corset, but I'm using Jennifer Rosbrugh's Historical Sewing Victorian Corset Sewing Workbook and following it step by step. It really helps take the mystery out of it.

It's a lot greener than this in person

I'm getting better at the little stitches, but its hard not to get a little wonky. The linen weave helps though.

bad flash photo

I'm proud of how well the busk came out, it wasn't as tricky as I thought it would be.